Leave in or Rinse Out? Which Conditioner is Right for Your Hair?

When it comes to hair treatments the conditioner we choose can really impact not only how our hair holds a style but it’s overall health and appearance. Most people feel overwhelmed by the number of conditioners available. Do I leave in or rinse out? Which conditioner is right for my hair type? How long do I leave it in for? How much should I use? To help us crack the code on hair conditioners we connected with Maya Smith, International Master of Natural Curls and founder of The Doux®, a haircare line created specifically for naturally curly hair which includes The Fresh Rinse® conditioner.

Below are the most common questions about hair conditioners with awesome insights and tips from Maya, where she lends over 2 decades of hands-on experience as a stylist.

What are the benefits of a conditioner?

Conditioners help protects the hair from dryness and breakage by coating the hair shaft to help it retain moisture and softness. People tend to use it mainly for the added benefit of detangling hair, however, it’s important to choose a conditioner that won’t weigh your hair down.

What are the benefits of a rinse?

A rinse, unlike a conditioner, doesn’t coat the cuticle of the hair. A rinse has a much thinner consistency and is in actuality a detangler.

Do I use a leave-in conditioner or a conditioning rinse?

You can use both if your hair is dry, course, or color treated, however, fine hair or hair that tends to be porous should stick to conditioner only.

Should everyone with curly or kinky hair use a conditioner?

Yes. Conditioners help maintain the hair’s elasticity, or its ability to stretch and expand without breaking, which is essential for curly hair.

How long do I leave in a conditioning rinse?

Follow the manufacturer’s instructions start there. Every formula is different, so you want to be sure to use the product as directed to avoid under or over-conditioning. You can always leave it in a bit longer or switch to another conditioner specifically for the result you want to achieve.

What’s the best water temperature to use when rinsing it?

I prefer luke-warm to cool water because it helps the cuticle of the hair close during the rinse, which makes the hair shiny and sleek.

How much conditioner should be used for every inch of hair?

It depends on the density, or thickness of the hair. Again, follow the manufacturer’s directions on how much to apply. Many suggest the amount of a quarter however if hair is thinner or really thick you may need more or less.

What are some ingredients that can weigh hair down?

Oils and certain types of silicones can weigh hair down. However, some formulas include these ingredients intentionally, because of the smoothing effect that they create on the hair. This is why it’s important not to leave it in too long and to make sure to get it all out unless it’s a leave-in conditioner.

What ingredients should be avoided?

I’m not a fan of petroleum jelly or mineral oil. There’s a lot of controversy surrounding silicone, but what most people don’t know is that silicones get a really bad rap because they’re commonly associated with silicones found in products that aren’t made for your hair. Cosmetic-grade silicones like dimethicone actually create slip, protects the hair from breakage, and helps the hair shaft retain moisture during the styling process.

What about conditioners for color-treated hair?

Some ingredients can break down artificial pigment in the hair, causing it to fade, look dull, or turn brassy. Make sure that the label says that the product is color-safe. You certainly want to switch to products formulated for color-treated hair.

Can I dilute a regular conditioner with water and use it as a detangler?

You can, however, I recommend opting for a product that was intended to be a leave-in conditioner. This will help you avoid unnecessary build-up. Some people like to put a leave in conditioner mixed with water in a spray bottle and add it to their beach bag. After swimming they spray it in to make hair easier to comb through.

What are some mistakes people make when using a leave in or a rise out conditioner?

Over-conditioning is the most common mistake because too much coating on the hair can cause dryness, brittleness, and ultimately breakage. Make sure you’re not leaving a conditioner in longer than 3 minutes unless the manufacturer instructs you to do so.

The Doux’s Fresh Rinse Conditioner, sold at Target for $12.99, addresses the need for deep nourishment for wavy, curly or kinky hair without heaviness or build up. 

About Maya Smith:

 Maya Smith is an International Master Stylist and Founder of The Doux Salon and haircare line now available in Target. With over two decades of styling experience, Maya dedicated two decades to crack the code on curl care, maintenance, and expert styling. When it comes to caring for one’s natural hair and styling it, according to NaturallyCurly, Maya is among the best there is.

While still in high school, Maya got her hair cutting license and graduated from beauty school. Soon after graduating high school, Maya began following her passion and worked as an assistant for celebrity stylist Tracy Johnson. She learned from Johnson and progressed as a hair stylist for celebrities and entertainers. Years later the military wife would relocate to Germany, where Maya opened up her first salon The HoneyComb, a mecca for textured hair care for women from all over Europe, The UK, and as far as Africa. Maya’s unique system of textured hair styling sparked the development of The DOUX® haircare products, first launched overseas, and distributed throughout Germany, France, Italy, and the Netherlands.

Currently, Maya leads a carefully selected team of stylists at The DOUX® Salon in Macon, Georgia and celebrated the arrival of The DOUX® in select Target stores nationwide. Maya Smith, wife, mom of 5 and savvy business woman is an example not just for women of color but for all women who believe their gifts can impact the world, striving for entrepreneurial endeavors with grace, ease and hustle.

BEST HAIR TIPS FOR GIRLS WITH NATURAL CURLS International Stylist and Curl Master Creator of The Doux Gets Real About Real Hair

People with wavy or curly hair are always looking for new products, tips and tricks to lock in their desired look. Whether they want to blow it straight, create looser curls or maximize their tighter coils, Maya Smith, Celebrity Hair Stylist, salon owner and creator of The Doux, the “Indie” haircare line with cult following which arrives at Target this month, is truly the master. Here she shares her best tips for girls with curls who want to revel in their natural hair and create a style they love.

Understand the battle between oil and moisture.

The first thing people must understand is that there are opposite things going on at the same time. “Due to the shape of curly haired strands, the hair tends to be under moisturized. On the other hand, the curly haired scalp can get very oily. Managing these opposite demands is the struggle of girls who wish to keep their curls. The key here is knowing how best to address both,” explains Maya who led the movement for women to transition from relaxers to natural curls.

Be gentle when washing curly hair.

According to Maya, kinky, thick, coiled textures tend to appear “tough” and strong enough to withstand heavy manipulation. “In my experience, these hair types are actually the most delicate, and should be handled with care, she recommends.”

Step One: Pick your products wisely.

Maya applied over 2 decades of research and development based on working knowledge of hair texture and listening to what people wanted. “I created The Doux™ SUCKA FREE Moisturizing Shampoo and FRESH RINSE Moisturizing Conditioner as the one-two step that delivers both deep cleaning plus exceptional nourishment necessary for styling.” It’s now available in Target stores and the full product line is available online at www.thedoux.com.

 

Step Two: Prep for shampoo.

Maya’s professional instructions for curl mastery begins with rinsing hair thoroughly with water for a minimum of 30 seconds. “This helps to eliminate any water-soluble product buildup, such as hair gel or heat protectant. It also helps you save shampoo! Assuming you’re shampooing in the shower, letting the water run over the hair in a downward motion helps prevent further tangling, and allows the hair shaft to swell and the curl pattern to fully rebound.” For those with extremely thick hair, Maya suggests separating hair into 4 sections prior to wetting the hair for increased manageability.

Once the shampoo is applied, Maya recommends light manipulation at the scalp, going from the crown of the head to the nape of the neck. “Squishing” the hair up toward the scalp is a no-no. “Shampooing this way can cause unforgivable tangling and matting. I recommend repeating the shampooing process at least once.”

Step Three: Condition and comb through like a pro. 

If your scalp was properly shampooed, conditioning is easy. “This time, you’re focusing on your thirsty ends first, working upward toward the scalp. Gently detangle with a wide-toothed comb or detangling brush (our favorite is Felicia Leatherwood’s “Brush with the Best” detangling brush) before rinsing, starting at the ends, working up toward to the roots. Remember to rinse with cool water which snaps cuticles shut, locks in moisture, makes your hair shinier and reduces frizz.”

When it comes to “co-washing” or “conditioner washing” Maya equates the popular trend to washing your clothes with fabric softener. “In my experience, co-washing causes build-up on the hair, coating the cuticle and impairing the hair’s natural ability to absorb water. Oils, waxes, and product residue harden on the hair shaft, making it more brittle and less porous over time. When the hair can no longer effectively absorb water, the elasticity of the hair is compromised, leaving the hair “crunchy” and stiff, where it is more likely to break. The result is hair that feels dry and brittle, no matter what product you use to moisturize it,” explains Maya.

One of the things Maya Smith and her team of stylists are known for is their ability to restore hundreds of their clients’ curls, simply by getting them to trade in the co-wash for a gentle, pH-balanced moisturizing shampoo, like The Doux’s SUCKA FREE which properly cleanses hair of product residue. “Once you have the hair thoroughly clean it “drinks” up the necessary amount of moisture, and returns to its natural softness,” Maya clarifies.

Avoid alcohol and kick the crunch to the curb.

Styling products high in alcohol give curls a crunchy feel.  They suck up every last bit of moisture.  Hair spray tends to contain the most alcohol, while gels, mousses and anything that provides hold or lift come in second. “I recommend water-soluble gels that don’t feel sticky on your skin, and aerated mousses or foams that resemble beaten egg whites, to give hair fullness, control, and non-brittle curls,” Maya says.

She adds that she created The Doux so it can be used on hair that is worn curly or straight. “Our clients purchase one set of products, and apply them differently to achieve the style they want. If you’re rocking curly hair today, you’re using The Doux’s Mousse Def and Bonita Afro Balm for softness and definition, and The Light for shine. If you’re wearing a blowout, you’re still using the same products, but applying them less liberally, and using the shine mist as a heat protectant. It’s super simple and easy to follow once you’ve seen the results each of them deliver,” Maya explains.

Blow-Dry with a diffuser or hooded dryer.

Maya’s first choice for curly styles is to air dry. “If you don’t have the time to air dry then dry with a diffuser or hooded dryer on a low heat setting.  A regular blow dryer nozzle disrupts the curl pattern and focuses hot air on one small section at a time while a diffuser, dries curls evenly for a full, uniform look,” she explains.

Maya recommends always applying a heat-protecting product, then flipping your head upside down using a diffuser at the roots and mid-length making sure to dry the area completely to lock in volume. “It’s important to leave the ends for last, and leave them only semi-dry. Air drying the ends is your best option.”

Care for the curls you were born with!

 

About Maya Smith:

Maya Smith is an International Master Stylist and Founder of The Doux Salon and haircare line now available in Target. With over two decades of styling experience Maya dedicated two decades to cracking the code on curl care, maintenance and expert styling. When it comes to caring for one’s natural hair and styling it, Maya is the best there is.

 

While still in high school, Maya got her hair cutting license and graduated from beauty school. Soon after graduating high school, Maya began following her passion and worked as an assistant for celebrity stylist Tracy Johnson. She learned from Johnson and progressed as a hair stylist for celebrities and entertainers. Years later the military wife would relocate to Germany, where Maya opened up her first salon The HoneyComb, a mecca for textured hair care for women from all over Europe, The UK, and as far as Africa. Maya’s unique system of textured hair styling sparked the development of The DOUX® haircare products, first launched overseas, and distributed throughout Germany, France, Italy, and the Netherlands. 

 

Currently, Maya leads a carefully selected team of stylists at The DOUX® Salon in Macon, Georgia and on Christmas Eve 2017, celebrated the arrival of The DOUX® in Target stores nationwide. Maya Smith, wife, mom of 5 and savvy business woman is an example not just for women of color but for all women who believe their gifts can impact the world, striving for entrepreneurial endeavors with grace, ease and hustle.

The DOUX Modern Hair Care System: Holiday Giveaway

Style + Life + Fashion would like to offer a product giveaway – THE DOUX Modern Hair Care System with an “Old School Edge.”

Giveaway Terms

1. Visit and “Like” Style+Life+Fashion Facebook Page, Twitter, Snapchat or Instagram account @kwest1908

2. Email kim@stylelifefashion.com sharing your hair care regimen.

3. Share the giveaway on your social networking sites (either Facebook, Twitter, or Instagram.)

Giveaway will end at midnight on Monday, December 11, 2017 Central Time. The winner will also be notified (via email) on Wednesday, December 13, 2017.

Products will be shipped directly to the giveaway winner from the manufacturer.  

THE STORY:

Get ready to “drop the mic” on the beauty aisles at Target stores this December. The Doux® (pronounced The Do) is a “new school” modern hair care system with an “old school edge.” With packaging that is bold and bright and product titles inspired by 90’s hip hop, The Doux is poised to kill it with those seeking a way to smoothing curly, kinky, and wavy hair into both, curly or straight styles.

Created by Maya Smith, a 25-year celebrity stylist and International Curl Master, The Doux was first launched in Europe in 2011 in response to her passion for helping people master the hair they were born with. STRAIGHT, NATURAL, CURLY, or RELAXED, according to The Doux, if you grew it, it’s ALL GOOD. “I was living in Germany at the time, had my own salon there and my specialty was helping clients to transition to a relaxer-free lifestyle. I’m obsessed with people maximizing the potential of the hair they were born with. Mastering curls is my passion and purpose,” explains Smith.

The people felt her passion through her products. The Doux blew up overseas so much so that it caught the attention of media in the USA. “Once we started getting press in the states the demand for The Doux was incredible. I had to return to the states and see this vision through,” Maya Smith explains. In 2014, Maya opened The DOUX Salon™ in Macon Georgia’s historic Downtown district and started selling her professional grade products at her salons and on-line.

Fast-forward three years and a lot of work and dedication, The Doux will arrive in Target stores, on Christmas Eve; no easy feat for an indie brand. “We are so excited to bring The Doux to the masses. It’s 20 years in the making. We listened to 20 years of feedback from actual clients from Minneapolis to Morocco. We listened to what people wanted, a salon grade, high quality product that delivered on its promises. Helping people to manage and maintain their natural hair and celebrate their own bold, unique style is what the last 25 years of my professional life has been about,” Maya Smith shares.

The Doux also redesigned its packaging, with the intention to disrupt the category. It’s bold with bright colors, which is the opposite of the more subdued look you see on the shelves currently. “I’m a fan of 90’s rap so I wanted to incorporate lyrics and titles in the packaging,” adds Smith. With titles such as Bonita Afro Balm, Mousse Def, Sucka Free, Fresh Rinse, and The Light, The Doux will most definitely catch the eyes of Millennials and Gen X’ers alike.